Wednesday 4 January 2012

Spot M 13th December 2011

Travelled down to one of my favourite shore breaks yesterday. It was going to be a rush to make the tide due to work but thought the risk could be worth it as the wind was forecast to be more favourable later on.

Picked up my friend and fellow booger Matty Allen on route and cruised down to the coast. It was amazing to think while driving down under the sun and blue sky’s that in a few hours times the storm producing this swell was going to be overhead bringing torrential rain and gales.

On arrival we didn’t bother checking but instead got changed and headed straight down to the beach. I decided to water shoot and had my fish-eye lens set up on my Canon 30D ready for some decent waves.

The waves where 4ft+ and quite heavy with a few barrels breaking through, with only a handful of people out which was a bonus. We stayed in for about 3 hours before it stopped working. A few photographs from the trip below. The full collection will be on-line soon at www.mattstansfieldsurfphotography.co.uk.

Looking like a week packed with good swell, so hopefully more of the same in the following days!

Matty Allen.

Chris Levi.

Matty Allen.

Perfect empty wave.

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